Bath Time!

Learning about the Japanese work ethic has been interesting over the past few months here in Funehiki.  Students and teachers alike put in ridiculous amounts of hours, and Saturdays are by no means automatic days off.  Work here is really important; there’s always something more to do.  On the other hand, such a dedicated work force can also lead to increased stress and missed time with family.  The Japanese have taught me a lot about the value of work, but this past weekend I learned a new lesson from them: the value of relaxation.  Yes, the Japanese know how to work hard, but they know how to relax as well. 

Last weekend as a thank you for working hard at English Camp (see previous post) our boss took all us English teachers out for two days of rest and relaxation.  Our trip started at 7:40 a.m. - a little early for a Saturday morning but definitely worth it.  We divided between two vans – one was for those that wanted another hour of sleep, while the other was for anyone else.  I had already finished my morning coffee, so it was van number two for me.  One of my friends brought along a trivia book, so the four of us spent the trip quizzing each other.  

Our first stop was a hiking path through Goshiki-Numa, the Five Colored Lakes.  These lakes were formed the last time nearby Mt. Bandai erupted.  Sulfur from the eruption causes the lakes to have very beautiful coloration.  Keep in mind that this was also during the third weekend in October, so the leaves were in their prime.  Greens, yellows, and reds were everywhere.  We had a guide for the hike, and he did a great job at pointing out all the different varieties of Japanese Maples along the path.  The colors weren't quite as spectacular as a NY fall, but was still very beautiful.

After we finished the trail we had bentos for lunch, and then it was back to the vans to head off to another trail.  This trail led to a nearby waterfall, perfectly framed in fall reds and yellows.  The first half of the trail consisted of a large staircase; I took my time on the stairs, focusing on each step as I ascended.  There is a peace in the woods like nowhere else, and I found it on those stairs.  And did I mention that it was a perfect day to be outside looking at leaves?  Sunny, brisk but not too cold.  After getting some great pictures by the waterfall it was back down the stairs to the vans.  Have you ever run down a mountain?  I like to do this whenever I can, so I hit the stairs pretty fast, and ended up wiping out about halfway down.  No, just kidding, I made it down fine.  I think running down those stairs was the best part of the weekend, actually.

Finished with all our outdoor activities for the day our vans took us to the Lake Inawashiro Resort.  The resort is situated right in between Lake Inawashiro and Mt. Bandai, providing a scenic view no matter where you look.  And then came the real treat: onsen.  Onsen is public bathing with water from natural volcanic hot springs, full of all sorts of minerals that are supposed to be good for you.  They are very popular all throughout Japan, and it’s no wonder why.   Four years in Shenawana Hall at Houghton College taught me some of the values of public bathing, but I didn’t even know.  I had always found baths to be relaxing, but I would get bored pretty quick.  The idea of spending an hour sitting and soaking didn’t seem that appealing, but I figured I would give it a try anyway.  There were three different baths, two inside and one outside.  Inside, one bath was very hot.  I couldn’t stay in it for too long before moving outside.  The outside bath was a little cooler, but still fairly hot.  And of course the outside bath had a stunning view of the lake.  The other inside bath was freezing, and taking a quick dip in it was very refreshing.  They also had a sauna at the onsen, kept at close to 200 degrees F.  I spent close to two hours in the onsen that afternoon, and I headed back for another 45 minutes after dinner too.  I’ve never been so relaxed in my life. 

Dinner was a fantastic five-course French feast.  The tables were set with about 10 pieces of silverware (real silver) per person.  The first course included some raw ebi (shrimp), mushrooms, foie gras, and something else I don’t know what.  And it was all pretty good (even the mushrooms).  A quick word on mushrooms: I hate them.  I’ve always done anything I could to avoid them.  But I have adopted a policy here of “Say yes to everything,” and that includes mushrooms.  So I’ve been doing my best with them, and I’ve actually had a few experiences with them that haven’t been negative in the past few months.  One of those times came in the second course: Mushroom soup.  I hate to say it, but it was pretty good.  (Mom, I wish I could see the look on your face right now.  Yeah, yeah, I know, you told me so.)  Course 3 was salmon, and it was the best salmon I’ve had since living in the Pacific Northwest.  But the main course was yet to come: STEAK!  One important characteristic of Japanese cuisine is to have small portions of a great variety of foods.  So we were all expecting the steak to come out in this fashion and be fairly small.  Nope.  It was enormous.  And cooked perfectly.  Desert was course number five and consisted in small portions of fruit, cake, and ice cream.  What a meal.

Sunday was rainy, which was ok because we didn’t have any hiking or other outdoor activities planned.  We drove to Aizu for our final two stops of the weekend.  Aizu is famous for its painted candles, so we went to a shop where they make/sell these candles.  But we didn’t know that we were going to have a chance to paint our own candles.  Once we got in the shop the people there took us upstairs, explained the process of making and painting the candles, and then led us into a room with tables set with paints and blank candles.  We each got to paint our own candle and take it home with us.  I’m sure for some of our group, this was the highlight of their weekend.  As you may know, I don’t have the skills of an artist, so it was not exactly my cup of tea.  But hey, I tried. 

After that we went to a bakery/café in another part of Aizu for lunch.   Bread and baked goods do not really exist in Japan, so it was really special to get a chance to enjoy some fresh bread and pastries.  I think that was the first piece of wheat bread I’ve had since entering the country.  After lunch it was back to the vans for the drive home.  What a weekend.  Yes, people in Japan work very hard, but they also know how to get every ounce of relaxation possible out of a weekend.  And I’m sure I’ll be back to onsen soon.